其實汽化燈爐的維修整理並不複雜
大致分為
1.清潔整理
2.墊片耗材更換
3.確保氣密建立壓力
4.油路氣路通順
5.適當空燃比
6.正確油料與良好預熱
7.穩定汽化燃燒
8.注意操作安全
只要掌握以上要素，除非碰上材質不對公差不良的燈爐，基本上點燈點爐都不會有問題。
當然再深入的話，金屬材料學、熱力學、物理、化學、製造工法、設計理念、歷史來由......那才是汽化燈爐迷人之處。
回想當初剛踏入汽化燈領域時，真的是一路摸爬滾打，每天東查西問……多虧網路的無遠弗屆，在國內國外、大江南北、燈爐武林中，總有許多門派宗師級的前輩願意不吝分享其經驗與技術，無論在部落格、在論壇、在社群…….讓飛蛾撲火般的迷戀者，能在這些資料中，一點一滴的累積關於汽化燈的知識與技巧。
要知道念念不忘，必有回響。
提一壺酒，點一盞燈，聽一場雨。
有雨就有痕，有燈就有人。
回首這一路，總覺從各方前輩偷學來的寶藏，應該做個系統整理。好讓後續對汽化燈領域有興趣的人，能有個概括指引，不致於走太多冤路。但一人之力有限，不過眾志必能成城。因此發了此念，希望集眾人力，先以德意志Jan Moeller先生的「Petromax 整理指南」來做基礎大綱。進而加入各方見解與注釋。
武以俠而傳，形具意則久，
人因情而生。
在此做個拋磚引玉，望各方大俠都能願意路見不平，拔刀相助。讓愛燈爐這份意，能如明亮白熾的汽化燈，藉不私之情發光，替之後入坑的玩家都能在茫茫燈爐海中，有個基礎指引。
Here below is a technical description on
how to perform a complete cleaning and restoration of a PETROMAX 829 500CP.
以下是如何整理汽化燈的技令指南。
Preface前言
The description below is based on the work I did and the experiences I had during the restoration of a Petromax® lantern.
This step-by-step instruction may guide you through all the work perhaps necessary in order to get your lantern restored and back to work or perform better for future operation.
This instruction can similarly be used for a PETROMAX 829(500 CP) 828 (350 CP), 827 (250 CP) and GENIOL 830 (150 CP).
Although I’m providing this information for everyone to read and use, I can’t assume any responsibility for the work, functionality or safety of your lantern and your work.
If you restore a lantern following these procedures it is your sole responsibility to take care of all necessary precautions in order to safely operate and enjoy your lantern.
If you restore a lantern following these procedures it is your sole responsibility to take care of all necessary precautions in order to safely operate and enjoy your lantern.
Sept. 2008
Author © : Jan Moeller, Germany / Translation: Erwin Schaefer, Germany
Author © : Jan Moeller, Germany / Translation: Erwin Schaefer, Germany
以下說明是基於維修Petromax®汽化燈時所做的工序和所獲得的經驗。此說明將盡量指導您完成所有可能必要的工作，以使您能順利整復汽化燈並使其正常運作並表現更好。
該指令亦可適用於PETROMAX 829（500 CP）， 828（350 CP），827（250 CP）或GENIOL 830（150 CP），或類似結構之汽化燈。
儘管這些信息將無償提供給所有人閱讀和使用，但對您的汽化燈的功能或安全性並無法承擔任何責任。 無論是否按照以下步驟恢復汽化燈，您都有責任採取所有必要的預防措施，以安全操作汽化燈。
黃埔TIPS：
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Petromax 系列與海錨950 ，要算是古典汽化燈中很好的入門燈
一是其零件耗材在現代PETROMAX公司的努力下，有較完整零件耗材後勤體系。讓老P燈，也能方便取得零件耗材。
二是其結構原理與施作工序也適用大部分歐系汽化燈爐。加上大P設計，幾乎是所有結構都能調整，在調校上十分方便（這有利有弊XD ）能熟練駕馭此燈，也就能大概領略汽化燈運作，算是能一通百通的好教練燈^^。
所以在此針對 Jan Moeller先生的大作，盡量忠實進行翻譯，並以過往血淚經驗，重新編排加註。以期提供進入燈爐海惡修領域的新燈友一些參考XD
2020年12月
中文翻譯與加註：燈爐黃埔/台灣
Overview of the Steps步驟清單
1. Disassembly
大部分解
2. Cleaning the parts
清潔零件
3. New seals for generator and pump check valve
更換汽化管與打氣逆止閥墊片
4. Re-assembly of Rapid pre-heater and generator (lower part)
重新組裝預熱火雞和下油管
5. Adjustment of the gen’s rod length, assembling of gen (upper part) and valve
調整通針挺桿，組裝上油管汽化管（上部）和通針斷油控閥
6. Assembly of frame w. pre-heater cup
組裝燈架和預熱杯
7. Putting heat shield and glass globe in place
組裝燈帽和玻璃燈罩
8. Assembly of complete inner hood and fitting of mantle
組裝燃燒混合室內罩並安裝燈芯
9. Adjustment of mixing tube distance
調整U型混合管距離空燃比
10. Burning the mantle
燈芯燒結
11. Pre-heating lantern w. Rapid / pre-heater cup
無壓酒精預熱 與 蓄壓快速預熱
12. Adjustment of mixing tube paddle
調整U型混合管蝴蝶閥
13. Put out lantern
如何熄燈
14. Identification of age
關於生產年份識別
15.後記
本文零件料號將參考Petromax®所提供標準零件圖，以便查找比對。
黃埔TIPS：
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翻修燈爐之前，能先行上網查找該燈資料，先瞭解燈爐歷史工藝來由，並取得該燈零件分解圖後，這對後續拆裝維修保養將有莫大幫助。
這邊提供一個很棒的瑞典forgas網站，內已整理許多型號燈爐的分解圖與零件料號。
Forgas瑞典系煤油燈爐型號零件爆炸圖
依型號查詢後 點選Här 即可展開手冊與零配件圖
(KÖK爐..LYKTOR / LAMPA 燈..BLÅSLAMPOR火雞..
VÄRMARE暖爐..LÖDKOLVAR噴槍..）
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Pic. 1: This is the candidate for restoration before disassembly. 這是在拆解之前準備整復的樣貌。
黃埔TIPS：
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在EBAY或瑞拍，或各國拍賣網站APP，往往這樣品相的未整理出土燈，有時可以幸運的用漂亮價錢標到。基本原則是要買哪國燈，就往哪裡去找。Ebay可設定不同集運國家地址，在不同地區，往往可以找到更多寶。
多看多追蹤，就能瞭解不同品相的大概行情價格。賣家整理的漂漂亮亮的當然貴，但有些小缺陷或缺件，也不是不能下手。加上運費風險成本，心裡有了底後，也不急著下手。因為除非是稀有神獸燈，不然品相更好的燈，總有機會在海灣滔滔浪花中再次冒頭的。當然神獸級的燈通常也少會上架，因為彼此熟識的買家賣家早私下交易了＠＠
在能準確評估缺件或掌握更換零件來源後，通常也是緣份已到，則可依自己可接受的預算開始下手標燈，但最重要還是要看清楚其油壺是否有嚴重缺陷。小叮小貓只會影響日後心情美麗，但大貓凹陷則有如二手車曾有重大事故，這會影響油壺結構安全，並需要大手術來拯救。除非是稀有燈或是打算當殺肉燈，不然燈海無涯，救燈救不完，還是三思放生較好。
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1. Disassembly大部分解
Start with the ventilator (#123). Loosen the knurled nuts on the frame (#121) until the ventilator can be lifted and removed. After this the inner hood (#117) can be taken out. Make sure the ceramic burner is not damaged when setting aside.
Now take the glass globe (#74) and the heat shield (if fitted) out. Remove the centre bottom screw (#14) which fixes the centre bottom plate to the font with a flat screwdriver. Next, take the centre bottom plate (#122) out and set the complete frame aside.
Now take the glass globe (#74) and the heat shield (if fitted) out. Remove the centre bottom screw (#14) which fixes the centre bottom plate to the font with a flat screwdriver. Next, take the centre bottom plate (#122) out and set the complete frame aside.
先鬆開燈架上的提把螺母（＃121）卸下燈帽（＃123）。
取出燃燒內罩取出燈玻（＃117）（＃74）
將燃燒內罩放置在燈玻上，可不傷到陶瓷泥頭。
用一字起子將燈架螺絲卸下。（＃14）
取出燈架固定片或選配隔熱板（＃122）（＃126）
並將整個框架安置在一邊。
黃埔TIPS：
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拆卸老燈老爐前，建議先用WD-40或 WURTH 0893 240急凍劑，浸潤準備拆卸的螺絲緊固件後靜置一段時間，這樣將有助於後續拆卸老舊卡死的螺件，也比較不傷工件。
選用較好能完全密合工件的手工具，正確施力。將常保這些老骨頭不致於發生滑牙崩牙等悲劇……
緊固螺絲拆卸前，可先反鎖逼緊一下，減輕預緊力，能較輕鬆拆卸。
老燈老爐若碰上難拆時，先別急著拆，可再使用潤滑油浸潤靜置或物理熱脹冷縮後施作，並視零件運作狀況，若還堪用，則可評估是否跳過該工序。
老燈老骨頭，每拆一次，多少是傷一次啊……其實體質好的老燈到手，有時真的只要清清油壺，換換墊片跟皮碗，就可以重現光明XD
附上一張個人燈爐維修常用工具，作為參考。
1.大一字貫通起子（for德系/英系逆止閥）
2.歐系逆止閥特工
3.一字起子
4.油封勾（清除墊片好幫手）
5.護套模型鉗（防刮傷工件或逆止閥簧筒用）
6.錐子
7.剪刀
8.尖嘴鉗
9. 小活動扳手 Knipex 86 03 150 （小支好約束出力）
10. 中活動扳手Knipex 86 03 180 （正常順手尺寸）
11.Wurth 急凍除鏽劑0893 240（拆解老舊螺絲用 也可用WD40替代）
12.工具箱
13.老花眼鏡(非必要XD)
工具不一定要買最好的，但好工具更順手。
剛開始時，可以走一趟工具五金店，大部分所需都能買到
但若開始發燒追求，那將又是另一種樂趣^^
畢竟是一個雅趣，那就再雅一些XD
這邊推薦 [路雷夢]的部落格，可以Fallow
https://blog.xuite.net/protisrick/twblog?st=c&p=1&w=4384170\
The font (#120) with the attached parts is left now.
The Rapid pre-heater (#226) is disassembled as follows: Open the pre-heater lever (#223), pull the flame tube (#220) off, unscrew the nozzle (#221) and the pre-heater nut (#222). The lever (#223) can now be removed. Finally unscrew the pre-heater body (#225) and put all parts aside.
The Rapid pre-heater (#226) is disassembled as follows: Open the pre-heater lever (#223), pull the flame tube (#220) off, unscrew the nozzle (#221) and the pre-heater nut (#222). The lever (#223) can now be removed. Finally unscrew the pre-heater body (#225) and put all parts aside.
在充分預潤各部螺絲緊固件後，即可開始拆卸油壺上的預熱火雞噴槍總成（＃226）
先開啟預熱板機（＃223），將噴焰管轉動後直接拉出（＃220）
卸下噴槍噴嘴和螺母（＃221）（＃222）。接著取下板機（＃223）
用小一字起子卸下板機上止擋（＃229）觀察止擋橡膠塊是否硬化崩解。
若狀況還行，塗抹300號矽油或橡膠保護劑，翻面後使用。若已損壞失去氣密功能，則使用針錐或油封勾挑出更換。
最後從油壺卸下預熱噴槍下段（＃225），並清除鉛墊片（＃90）並將所有零件先集中放置在一旁。
黃埔TIPS：
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鉛墊片有時沾粘在油壺上很難挖除，
鉛融點低，可稍用火攻軟化，將容易方便施作。
火攻之前，請做好相關安全準備，油壺清空灌水，以防殘存油氣，易燃雜物也務必清空。
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To disassemble the generator, remove the nozzle (#115) with a 9mm wrench (or Petromax® wrench or adjustable wrench), then take the needle (#68) out with the special tool (see pic. 13).
接下來拆卸上油管，請先使用通針控閥將通針下行後（＃114），使用9mm扳手卸下噴嘴（＃50），然後用通針專用工具或是尖嘴鉗將油管內通針（＃68）取出（見圖13）。
使用適當扳手轉開上油管的緊固螺帽（＃152）然後小心將上油管拿起。
油管若積碳或焦油黏滯嚴重，不好取出時，可先使用化油器清潔劑浸泡。
施用化學藥劑，請做好眼手鼻防護措施，並在戶外通風處施作。
Unscrew the gland nut of the gen’s upper part (#152) using a proper wrench and lift the upper part off of the gen. rod (#104). Now unscrew the complete valve (#114) with a 10mm (or equivalent) wrench. One now can take the complete generator rod (#104) out. Unscrew the gen’s lower part (#153) from the font (#120).
用扳手鬆開通針控閥組上的心軸固定螺絲（＃114）（＃107）讓心軸脫開挺桿滑塊後（＃105) （＃103)即可取出整支通針連桿總成（＃104）然後開始拆解下油管並清除鉛墊片（＃153）（＃90）
黃埔TIPS：
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下油管有時並不好拆，可能年久鏽死也可能有螺絲膠。此時用噴槍稍微加熱，可降低螺絲膠強度，而熱脹冷縮也能鬆動緊固件，而有助於拆卸。
要注意的是，熱銅件硬度會降低很多，這與一般鐵製螺絲不同。若太急施作，會很容易滑牙@@ 一定要等銅工件完全冷卻後，再行拆卸。
手工具能用套筒，就不用梅開板手。能用梅開，就不用活動板手。這都是為了能更好施力於螺件。若需增大力距，可改用較大的板手，施握手工具時可利用手指數來控制力距。
或找燈友兩兩互助施作。或使用桌上型虎鉗反夾住油管後，轉動油壺。甚至利用小學木椅，水溝蓋，都能幫助順利拆卸。老燈維修拆解，熟能生巧，往往幾次之後就能熟悉要訣跟力道。
這會是一個相當有益身心的健康娛樂XD 。所以請放心動手，只要多練習，人人都能有功練XD
關於緊固件知識，可參考此篇，受用無窮。
緊固件螺紋螺栓的安裝要求、擰緊、防鬆脫、拆卸技術詳解
原文網址：https://kknews.cc/news/lnakzlz.html
原文網址：https://kknews.cc/news/lnakzlz.html
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To complete the disassembly remove the complete pressure gauge set (#149). Remove the pump (#6) to get access to the pump check valve (#10). Take the valve out with a big, flat screwdriver or the special check valve tool (#57) depending on the type of valve.
Congratulations!
You are now done with disassembly.
You are now done with disassembly.
接下來卸下壓力表油壺蓋套件，並取出老化墊片（＃149）（＃11）
卸下打氣棒組（＃6）觀察皮碗狀況，若是已腐爛破損則拆卸準備進行更換。
若還完好，只是乾枯。則可先浸泡機油，使其恢復彈性。
用大的一字貫通起子（針對p系或英系）
或專用逆止閥特工（分美系歐系）將逆止閥取出（＃10）。
並使用油封鉤或鐵絲將鉛墊片清除（＃83）
恭喜你！ 現在，您已完成大部分解工作。
黃埔TIPS：
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拆卸逆止閥，往往是悲劇的開始，大部分滑牙崩牙甚至泵管（＃98）裂損，都在此階段發生。
銅件真的很軟。
事先查找資料，注意是否為反牙。充分浸潤、正確施力角度、手工具要能完全密合工件、先轉緊後轉鬆，注意施力。將能大大降低滑牙崩牙風險。
若逆止閥不易拆卸，可先行測試油壺蓄壓狀況，在打氣泵管內注入水或酒精（好後續蒸發乾燥），觀察是否冒泡漏氣。若只微漏，則可先滴矽油浸潤，用鐵絲稍戳動後，讓逆止閥止擋恢復彈性。待之後觀察運作情形，再評估是否需要整理逆止閥。
有時逆止閥即使已經轉鬆，卻卡住空轉取不出。大部分是因為老舊鉛墊片已整個沾黏卡住，可用白鐵線扭成鉤環去拉出（這通常要搞很久很久很久XD)
燈友風獅爺自製的勾取工具
油壺內的鉛墊片清除，也是很麻煩的工序。通常需要耐心慢慢挖。若是硬來，有時傷了螺牙溝，得不償失。可將逆止閥重配墊片鎖上判斷，若可吃牙鎖上，那就把這難題當做時光的積累吧XD
不幸發生崩牙滑牙時…也不要緊張，先找更密合特工看看，往往五成機會能解決。若還是不行，可開始上網購買逆牙攻，斷頭螺絲取出器，或到黃埔查找進階三級廠逆止閥崩牙救援經驗方法資料XD
這邊借用燈友五哥 逆攻牙的照片，讓大家大致了解
燈友顏老提供購買參考：逆攻牙組與T型套筒板手 六角板手 可裝起子頭
詳細操作也可參考韓國藍太陽大叔的YOUTUBE
https://youtu.be/ehc2cWe8edQ
2. Cleaning the parts清潔零件
After the above procedure and a first inspection of the parts, I heated water in a bucket for washing and added some citric acid.
I prepared myself with protective gloves and goggles and started off with an old toothbrush as the best and cheapest tool to clean the small parts and folds, where it is difficult to get access to.
在完成上述步驟和零件的第一次檢查之後，我在水桶中加熱水進行清洗，並添加了檸檬酸。 我準備好了防護手套和護目鏡，然後開始使用舊牙刷作為清潔難於接觸的小零件和褶皺的最佳和最便宜的工具。
Most of the dirt and debris came off of the parts quite fast in the hot citric solution.
After I’d cleaned the font, frame, centre bottom plate and the ventilator I washed the parts again in water with dish detergent added in order to stop the chemical reaction of the citric acid.The other parts like gen and pre-heater were specially cleaned in an ultrasonic bath with citric acid again. They came out very nice and clean.
After I’d cleaned the font, frame, centre bottom plate and the ventilator I washed the parts again in water with dish detergent added in order to stop the chemical reaction of the citric acid.The other parts like gen and pre-heater were specially cleaned in an ultrasonic bath with citric acid again. They came out very nice and clean.
在檸檬酸溶液中，大部分污垢和碎屑很快從零件上脫落。 清潔油壺，框架，中央底板和燈帽後，我再次在水中加入餐具洗滌劑清洗了零件，以阻止檸檬酸的化學反應。 油管和預熱器等其他零件在超音波中再次用檸檬酸清洗。他們出來的非常乾淨。
However, the brass changed the color in the citric acid to a reddish tone because small particles of zinc are consumed in the bath and the copper shines up more. I polished those parts with fine steel wool and they now shine nicely in the original brass tone again.
但是檸檬酸會使黃銅的顏色變成微紅色，這是因為酸液中消耗了銅合金中少量的鋅，使銅的原色露出。我用細鋼絲絨再次打磨了這些零件，現在它們又以原始的黃銅色調再次閃耀。
黃埔TIPS：
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清潔油壺是整理汽化燈重中之重，因為燃料或多或少都有溶劑，這會關係日後油路清潔。清潔方法很多。酸除鏽，鹼去脂。加上物理研磨刮除會是大概原理。
通常建議先觀察油壺內部積垢或銅鏽嚴重狀況。倒入3mm不鏽鋼鋼珠約500公克與廢棄煤油，利用研磨原理，進行初步搖洗。倒出髒油與鋼珠後，再加入少許少許少許氫氧化鈉（片鹼）或家用清潔劑，與水混合後，用鋼珠繼續搖洗。這樣反覆兩三次後，通常油壺就能清水進清水出。要注意氫氧化鈉為強鹼，不能用太多，一小茶匙足已。
洗油壺好工具 氫氧化鈉 / 3mm鋼珠
施作時需注意眼手鼻護具與通風。
酸鹼施作後，要注意時間反應，儘速中和清洗
以免過度腐蝕。
油壺清洗後，可倒入少許酒精涮洗，加速蒸發風乾。
噴嘴應避免酸鹼洗，酸鹼多少會腐蝕，容易使噴嘴孔徑失去精度。
其他零部件可用食用檸檬酸，10％濃度，45度熱水，用超音波震40min即可。若銅件呈粉紅，則算有點過頭。應儘速用鹼性清潔劑中和清洗後，稍加拋磨即可恢復黃銅色澤。
燈友邦哥的超音波清洗
上油管清潔，可先泡化清劑、或溶劑，或是酸鹼，軟化崩解內部焦垢積碳後，物理刮除。也可先用火燒至微紅，類似柴油車燒DPF，將焦油碳化後，再使用竹筷刮除。注意只要微微紅就好，若太通紅，會影響金屬剛性。原則上用比工件軟的工具去施作刮除，算是比較溫柔的方法XD
使用火烤 燒除積碳
使用電線刮除環管積碳
燈友英俊 使用束帶刮除爐頭油管積碳
汽化環管暢通是影響汽化效率的關鍵，但其清除也最為麻煩。除化學或火攻外，使用煞車線或電線，利用其撓性，深入刮除，注意施作時勿傷螺牙，可先用電氣膠布保護兩端螺牙，另外用電鑽夾工程塑膠束帶下去打，也是很有效率的省事方法。萬一環管真的完全堵死，除尋找備品外，請江湖神人前輩切除更換重新銀焊，也是一大招XD
這邊有槍貓師傅的清爐頭法，是很好的一篇參考文
賴桑前輩的部落格是寶庫，也有許多參考
後續拋光研磨，則隨人法喜，可參考此篇宜蘭燈爐故宮文物修復處_硬梆梆主任作法XD
3. New seals for generator and pump check valv逆止閥與墊片更換
Usually the rubber seals in the generator foot valve (#196) and the pump check valve (#10) are dry and totally hardened. If one doesn’t at least replace the pump check valve seal one can hardly operate the lantern safely because of kero leaking from the font into the pump body, thus flooding the body and also losing pressure.
An old, hardened seal in the generator foot (#193) must in any case be replaced if one wants to pre-heat the lantern with the Rapid pre-heater later. If one only wants to pre-heat using the little alcohol cup (#35) then it is not mandatory but again highly recommended for safety reasons.
通常，下油管逆止閥（＃196）和打氣泵浦逆止閥（＃10）中的橡膠止擋因老化而完全乾硬。如果不更換，則燃料將會洩漏到泵體中，使泵體氾濫並失去壓力，因此很難安全地操作汽化燈。
如果要在以後用Rapid預熱器對燈進行預熱，則必須更換下油管逆止閥止檔（＃193）中舊的，硬化的橡膠止擋塊。如果只想使用酒精預熱杯（＃35）進行無壓預熱，則不是強制性的，出於安全原因再次強烈建議更換。
The complete pump check valve is shown in pic. 6. The rubber seal (#17) needs to be replaced. The lead washer (#83) should also be replaced. However, if it doesn’t have too much deformation you can try to re-use it, but make sure it seals tightly and doesn’t leak.
In case of any lead washer make sure you turn the parts only clockwise to keep the lead washer tight. Never turn counter-clockwise again!
In case of any lead washer make sure you turn the parts only clockwise to keep the lead washer tight. Never turn counter-clockwise again!
完整的打氣泵浦逆止閥如圖6所示。需要更換橡膠密封墊（＃17）。鉛墊片（＃83）也應更換。但是，如果變形不大，您可以嘗試重複使用它，但要確保它緊密密封且不會洩漏。 如果有任何鉛墊，請確保僅順時針旋轉零件以保持鉛墊迫緊。永遠不要再逆時針轉動！
The most common problems are caused by a defective / leaky generator foot valve.
When the font is pressurized, the valve wheel points to the ‘closed’ position and one starts to pre- heat the gen with the Rapid pre-heater, then some fuel might rise in the gen and come out of the nozzle. This causes the lantern to catch fire with lots of smoke and soot. If that continues during the pre-heating time one has a perfect ‘inferno’.
When the font is pressurized, the valve wheel points to the ‘closed’ position and one starts to pre- heat the gen with the Rapid pre-heater, then some fuel might rise in the gen and come out of the nozzle. This causes the lantern to catch fire with lots of smoke and soot. If that continues during the pre-heating time one has a perfect ‘inferno’.
Pic. 7 shows sections of the gen’s lower part (#153), the generator rod (#104) as well as the disassembled generator foot valve with the rubber seal (#193) and the valve spring (#194).
Everything fine so far?
All parts clean, straightened-out, worn-out parts replaced and seals at hand to start re- assembling?
OK, fine! Then let’s go for the next step.
最常見的問題是由下油管逆止閥故障/洩漏引起的。 當油壺加壓時，通針控閥指向“關閉”位置，並且開始使用Rapid預熱火雞對油管進行預熱，然後一些燃油可能會在油管中上升並從噴嘴中噴出。這會使燈著火，並冒出大量煙塵和煙灰。如果在預熱期間這種情況持續下去，人們將擁有完美的“發爐地獄”。
圖片圖7顯示了下油管（＃153），通針連桿（＃104）以及拆卸後的帶有橡膠擋止（＃193）和逆止閥彈簧（＃194）的下油管逆止閥截面。
到目前為止一切還好嗎？
所有零件均已清潔，整平，磨損的零件已更換，並且手邊已備妥墊片重新組裝？
好的！ 讓我們繼續下一步。
黃埔TIPS：
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壓力汽化燈首重氣密，有了氣密才能建立壓力供油。大部分汽化燈故障原因都來自氣密，所以墊片很重要。
拜燈友開發，目前網路上多能方便買到適合規格的墊片。若DIY魂業障重，也可以利用圓規刀或皮革加工用沖子（圓斬丸斬），自購1～3mm橡膠墊片製作。講究的可買俗稱VITON的氟橡膠，一般燃料則NBR已足夠用。
橡膠材質特性請參考 加耐力網頁
燈友邦哥正自製墊片
逆止閥擋止因需長期浸在燃料裡，加上古早橡膠科技並不發達。所以許多老燈老爐的擋止都是選用軟木塞材質。若想遵循古法，可尋找紅酒瓶的軟木塞，或試管用軟木塞來自行切削製作。但記得要選擇原生軟木材質，勿用膠合壓縮的。另外軟木要使用前，一定要先用水潤濕，使其恢復彈性。方能發揮氣密功能。
購買試管用原生軟木塞，自行割製檔止
拜燈友開發，目前逆止閥真的取得容易，有時偷懶，直接更換新逆止閥，或拆下新止擋替換舊件，也是一招。
換好擋止，鎖回逆止閥前，要再確認擋止彈簧是否往復良好，另外要注意逆止閥彈簧室套筒（＃19）是否確實緊固，這有時真的會鬆脫失效，噴出一條油龍＠＠
逆止閥鉛墊片是靠鉛變形來達成氣密。其實並不用完全催死逼緊，可稍計算螺牙螺距後，估算每轉一圈大概可以讓鉛墊片厚度變形多少，緊固時有一定變形量即可有氣密效果。之後油壺蓄壓後，抽出打氣棒，再將酒精或水倒入泵筒內檢查氣密，若是中心氣孔微漏，則是新止擋未密合，可稍用鐵絲戳一下，看是否改善。若是逆止閥周圍墊片漏，因為還有餘裕，只要再鎖至不再冒泡即可。
基於逆止閥是汽化燈最常維修之處，而鉛墊片通常只能一次性使用，並且還要一次鎖到位。所以很多燈友會改以方便的O-ring來替換。這可上網搜尋汽車用油封，往往有一整盒大小尺寸通吃的可購買，選擇耐溫耐油耐酸鹼的，將會是居家修燈常備偷懶良藥XD ，不過既然原廠設計是鉛墊片，這邊還是建議使用鉛墊片，方保長久安康。
燈友英俊使用汽車維修常用的套裝Oring組
4. Re-assembly of Rapid pre-heater and generator (lower part) 重新組裝快速預熱器（火雞）和下油管
In general, re-assembly of the whole lantern is done in the reverse sequence compared to disassembly.
We’ll start with the Rapid pre-heater.
First make sure the mesh (#187) at the lower end of the pick-up tube is clean. Otherwise replace (see pic. 41).
Also clean the tiny channels in the Rapid nozzle (centre hole for kero, 2 outer holes for air). This is very important to get the Rapid running properly (see also pic. 42).
Also clean the tiny channels in the Rapid nozzle (centre hole for kero, 2 outer holes for air). This is very important to get the Rapid running properly (see also pic. 42).
通常，怎麼拆就怎麼裝。我們將從Rapid預熱火雞開始。首先確保火雞吸油管下端的濾網乾淨（＃187）。若有髒污堵塞請清潔更換（請參見圖41）。
要確保快速噴嘴中的微小通道暢通（中心孔為燃料通道，兩個外部孔為空氣通道）。這對於火雞正常運作非常重要（另請參見圖42）。
The pre-heater body (#225) along with a new lead washer (#90) will be mounted first (pic. 8). Screw the part in until it sits tight and is properly adjusted. Don’t turn in reverse direction again in order to avoid the lead washer leaking.
Next, the lever (#223) is mounted onto the pre-heater body. The lever is to be secured with the nut (#222). Now the pre-heater nozzle (#221) must be screwed onto the pre-heater body. Then the flame pipe (#220) can be put onto the nozzle (One can also put the flame pipe on after assembly of the frame).
Most probably the rubber sealing part (#229, circled in pic. 9) has to be replaced as well as it is worn out or edges are damaged due to improper centering.
預熱火雞主體（＃225）和新的鉛墊片（＃90）要先安裝（圖8）。緊固需一次到位。勿再次反向旋轉，以免導致鉛墊片洩漏。
接下來，將板機（＃223）安裝到預熱器主體上。使用螺母（＃222）固定。將預熱器噴嘴（＃221）鎖回預熱器主體上。然後將噴焰管（＃220）套回噴嘴上（可待組裝燈架後套回）。
最有可能的是，必須更換橡膠止擋（＃229，在圖9中圈出），以及由於對中不當而導致磨損或邊緣損壞。
Next is the re-assembly of generator (lower part).
First comes the gen’s lower part (#152) and a lead washer (#90). The lead washer gets between the font and the lower part as shown in the picture.
接下來是下油管的重新組裝。首先是下油管（＃152）和鉛墊圈（＃90）。如圖11所示，鉛墊片在油壺和下油管之間。
It might be helpful to first screw in the gen without the lead washer to check the number of turns. Then put the washer on and screw in. Again, make sure you turn only clockwise until the gen is in the right position to avoid leakages from the lead washer later.
The opening for the valve w. the valve wheel (#114) should then exactly point to the front (outwards). Only then can one assemble the frame easily and correctly later.
在沒有鉛墊片的情況下先暫鎖入下油管可能有助於檢查圈數。 然後放上墊圈並鎖緊。同樣，請確保僅順時針旋轉直到下油管處於正確的位置，以免日後從墊圈洩漏。 下油管的控閥開口，閥輪（＃114）應該向外垂直油壺。 這樣之後才能輕鬆正確地組裝燈架。
黃埔TIPS：
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有些燈友在鎖下油管時，習慣捨鉛墊片改用厭氧螺絲膠，一可防止鬆動，二是確保氣密，也是可參考的工法。小隊是習慣都來，雙重保險。有了螺絲膠，接下來鎖上油管時，也不容易因連動而造成下油管位移。
關於螺絲膠可以參考 LOCTITE® 樂泰的說明
5. Adjustment of the gen’s rod length, assembling of gen (upper part) and valve調整通針連桿的長度，組裝上油管（上部）和控閥
In order to complete the re-installation of the generator, one now has to put the generator rod (#104) in place. The rod is to be inserted in the gen’s body and turned in a way, that the receiver (#103) for the valve shaft (#105) can be seen through the gen’s valve opening (pic. 12).
Now the valve shaft along with the hand wheel must be screwed in. In order to allow the little pin on the valve shaft to match the receiver (#103) one needs to push down the gen rod a little. If that was done properly, one can now move the rod up and down by turning the hand wheel.
Next the upper part of the gen (#152) is carefully slid over the gen rod. Tighten the gland nut of the upper part ‘hand-tight’ only for now.
Now take the thin gen needle (#68) and screw it into the gen rod, using the special tool (#119). See pic. 13. Finally insert the nozzle (#50) into the gen and tighten loosely.
Next the upper part of the gen (#152) is carefully slid over the gen rod. Tighten the gland nut of the upper part ‘hand-tight’ only for now.
Now take the thin gen needle (#68) and screw it into the gen rod, using the special tool (#119). See pic. 13. Finally insert the nozzle (#50) into the gen and tighten loosely.
為了完成上油管的安裝，現在必須將通針連桿總成（＃104）放置到位。將連桿插入下游管的主體中，並稍加轉動，以便可以從下油管的閥門開口（圖12）看到連桿滑塊（＃103）的凹槽向外，以便連接油門心軸（＃105）
將閥桿和手輪一起擰入。為了使閥桿上的小梢與滑塊（＃103）相匹配，需要將連桿稍微下壓。如果操作正確，現在可以通過控閥手輪上下移動連桿。 接下來，將上油管（＃152）小心地套上連桿。暫時僅“上緊”螺母。 現在，使用專用工具（＃119）將通針（＃68）鎖上連桿中。見圖13。最後將噴嘴（＃50）暫鎖上油管。
Most important now is to check, how far the needle comes out of the gen’ nozzle when the valve is closed (arrow on the hand wheel points ‘up’). It’s best if the needle comes out between 0.5 – 1mm. If it comes out considerably more or less, a re-adjustment is necessary. It shouldn’t look like as shown in pic. 14.
If a re-adjustment is required, unscrew the gen’s nozzle again, followed by the needle. Next the gen’s upper part and the valve with hand wheel have to come out again.
The 2 halves of the generator rod need to be adjusted to a proper length so that the above mentioned measures (0.5-1mm) are reached. To achieve this, the little counter nut (#102) on the ‘reception part’ has to be loosened, the length adjusted and the nut pulled tight again (pic. 15 and 16).
The 2 halves of the generator rod need to be adjusted to a proper length so that the above mentioned measures (0.5-1mm) are reached. To achieve this, the little counter nut (#102) on the ‘reception part’ has to be loosened, the length adjusted and the nut pulled tight again (pic. 15 and 16).
現在最重要的是檢查在關閉閥門時（控閥箭頭“向上”通針上行）通針從噴嘴中出來的距離。最好將針調整到0.5~1mm之間。如果太多或太少，則需要重新調整。它看起來不應該如圖所示14。 如果需要重新調整，請再次卸下噴嘴通針，上油管和通針控閥組也必須再次拆下。 通針連桿的兩端需要調整到適當的長度，以便達到上述尺寸（0.5-1mm）。這要靠連桿上的調節螺母（＃102）調整長度，然後再次鎖緊螺母（圖15和16）。
When that step has been done successfully, all parts need to be re-assembled as described above. Now check all connections again and pull firmly tight in order to safely run the lantern and avoid leakages during later operation.
In the optimum case the needle looks out of the nozzle as shown in pic. 17.
In the optimum case the needle looks out of the nozzle as shown in pic. 17.
If a proper result was not achieved in a first step, one unfortunately has to repeat the whole procedure until a convenient result is achieved.
成功完成上述步驟後，需要如上所述重新組裝所有零件。現在再次檢查所有連接並確認緊固，以安全地點燈並避免在之後的洩漏。 在最佳情況下，通針長度應如圖所示17。 如果在第一步中沒有獲得適當的結果，那麼不幸的是必須重複整個過程，直到獲得完美結果為止。
黃埔TIPS：
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通針的功能為清除噴嘴堵塞，若長度過長，有一說會干擾噴嘴噴氣，造成不穩定。
緊固上油管時，需將上下喇叭錐口清理乾淨，並確實對正後迫緊。錐口若不平整，則很容易洩漏。鎖上油管，可利用兩隻板手交叉的剪刀法，用其中一支卡住環管作支點，另一支緊迫螺母。並注意上油管環管的置中。這需要多練習才能掌握訣竅。
若點燈時，有發現微微輕煙，久而不散。通常都是上油管錐口有微微洩漏。這有時浸水查氣密時，並不容易發現。
有些老燈上油管會歪歪扭扭，可利用膠鎚木墊或是虎鉗將其校正。
噴嘴緊固也很重要，大多燈友會習慣加用排氣管膠，但排氣管膠屬於高溫補土，時間久了，拆裝過程也容易磨損螺牙。小隊習慣在第一次鎖緊後靜置。在最後組裝完成前，各部分會再逼緊一次，長保安康。
若日後常常因鬆動而造成發爐，才會考慮施以水1：1稀釋排氣管膠。（排氣管膠推薦 WURTH 0890 100 045排氣管接合膏）
其實寫到這，才發現原文有漏了很多關鍵＠＠
控閥(#114)內有很重要的一個密封元件：石墨圈(#108)這是保持控閥心軸能自由旋轉又同時保持氣密的零件。一般會先檢視其是否足夠，或是挖除更換，或是補以石墨繩皆可。
聽老前輩說，應急時連石棉繩都能上XD 或是用碳粉加漿糊替代XD
另外在完成油壺主要零配件組裝後，建議先蓄壓，進行第一次浸水以檢查氣密。針對有冒泡處，重新緊固。並同時檢查油壺是否有裂損洩漏。
有時很多油壺微滲微裂並不易察覺
可以蓄壓後，針對可能洩漏處，使用毛筆沾肥皂水檢查之。
浸豬籠 查氣密
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6. Assembly of frame w. pre-heater cup組裝燈架與預熱杯
Now it’s time to assemble the frame (#121).
Set the frame onto the font and adjust right. Put the centre bottom plate (#122) in the bottom of the frame and fix these parts using the centre bottom screw (#14). If the lantern isn’t already fitted with an alcohol pre-heater cup (#35) this is the time to add one. Just put in on top of the centre bottom plate and screw all parts together. You now have the options to pre-heat using the Rapid pre-heater or make a softer start with alcohol.
Set the frame onto the font and adjust right. Put the centre bottom plate (#122) in the bottom of the frame and fix these parts using the centre bottom screw (#14). If the lantern isn’t already fitted with an alcohol pre-heater cup (#35) this is the time to add one. Just put in on top of the centre bottom plate and screw all parts together. You now have the options to pre-heat using the Rapid pre-heater or make a softer start with alcohol.
現在可組回燈架了（＃121）。 將燈架設置在油壺上並與閥門對正。 將燈架固定底板（＃122）放在框架底部，然後使用燈架底部螺絲（＃14）固定這些部件。 部分老燈未配有酒精預熱杯（＃35），則可補添購一個了。只需放在中間底板的頂部，然後將所有零件在一起。 現在，您可以選擇使用Rapid預熱器進行預熱，或者用酒精無壓預熱軟啟動開始。
黃埔TIPS：
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近代的大P或海錨在燈架的材質較軟，要確認鎖上的燈架不偏移，不然會影響燃燒內罩的U管是否對正噴嘴。這也將影響之後的運作穩定閃爍。
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7. Putting heat shield and glass globe in place安裝隔熱板和玻璃燈罩
Now the glass globe (#74) can be set in. Optionally one can also add a heat shield (# 126). This heat shield protects the font from heat radiating down from the mantle. However, it is still possible to pre-heat the gen using the alcohol pre-heater cup, if desired.
There are descriptions in old ads that one can run a lantern with fitted heat shield for some more time even if the mantle is broken. However, I can’t recommend this as the glass globe is at risk. Replace a broken mantle as soon as you notice.
There are descriptions in old ads that one can run a lantern with fitted heat shield for some more time even if the mantle is broken. However, I can’t recommend this as the glass globe is at risk. Replace a broken mantle as soon as you notice.
現在可以放入玻璃燈罩（＃74）。也可以選擇添加一個隔熱板（＃126）。 此隔熱板可保護油壺免受從罩套中散發出來的熱量。在舊廣告中有描述說，即使燈幔破裂，也可以使裝有隔熱板的燈籠運轉。 但是，我不建議您這樣做，因為玻璃燈罩正處於危險之中。 當燈幔有破洞時，請立即更換破裂的燈幔。
黃埔TIPS：
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因為有時碰到品質不好的燈幔，是真的會莫名奇妙的斷頭，使火焰直噴油壺，造成過熱過壓危險。所以有機會裝隔熱板時，最好裝上。
另外有破洞的燈芯，會讓火焰冒出使玻璃局部加熱，進而溫度不均而碎裂。
8. Assembly of complete inner hood and fitting of mantle組裝燃燒室內罩並安裝燈芯
The complete inner hood consists of the following parts: The inner hood (#117) itself, mixing tube (#33), mixing chamber (#34) and the ceramic burner (#3). See pic. 21 and 22.
These three parts are adjusted and held in place by the clip (#20), screw (#21) and cross bar (#22).
These three parts are adjusted and held in place by the clip (#20), screw (#21) and cross bar (#22).
The mantle is put on the ceramic burner above the lower rim and roughly fixed with one knot. Then the folds are distributed evenly, the knot is pulled tight and secured with a second knot. This ensures that the mantle will get an even form when burned. Now just cut the surplus strings off and you’re prepared (pic. 23).
完整的燃燒室內罩由以下部分組成：燃燒內罩（＃117）本身，U型混合管（＃33），混合室（＃34）和陶瓷噴頭（＃3）。 見圖片21和22。 這三個部分通過簧片（＃20），固定螺絲（＃21）和橫桿（＃22）進行調整併固定在適當的位置。 將燈芯套上陶瓷燃燒器上，並用一個結大致固定。 然後將褶皺均勻分佈，將結拉緊並用第二個結固定。 這樣可以確保套在燃燒時會形成均勻的形狀。 現在，剪掉多餘的綁線，您就準備好了（圖23）。
黃埔TIPS：
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燈幔好壞差異不小，有含釷輻射，或現代改成yttrium(釔)或zirconium(鋯)的環保燈芯。這也是有些燈芯亮度色溫的關鍵，另外除了本身網紗的耐用，還有綁線的品質也差很多，可以多試多玩。
燈芯要燒的漂亮，摺皺平整是關鍵。可先交叉綁線兩次用平結固定後，將摺皺平均後，再打一個死結固定。
9. Adjustment of mixing tube distance調整U型混合管距離
The generation of best (kero-) gas / air mixture is ensured by the proper adjustment of the mixing tube distance. The inner hood must firmly sit on the frame before adjustment. The valve must be in the ‘open’ position (arrow pointing down) to avoid bending of the generator needle sticking out of the nozzle with the Petromax wrench (#66).
Loosen the screw (#21) a little with a flat screwdriver until the mixing tube can be moved up (see pic. 24). Now place the Petromax wrench vertically on top of the nozzle and slide it in the ‘500CP’ position (pic. 25). Now lower the mixing chamber onto the wrench.
Pull the screw (#21) securely tight, check the distance again and the proper distance is adjusted and fixed. The optimum value for a 500cP lantern is 14.2mm.
Pull the screw (#21) securely tight, check the distance again and the proper distance is adjusted and fixed. The optimum value for a 500cP lantern is 14.2mm.
通過適當調節混合管的距離，可以確保產生最佳的空燃比。 調整之前，燃燒內罩必須牢固地坐在框架上。 閥門必須處於“打開”位置（箭頭指向下方，通針下行），以避免傷到通針。 用一字起子稍微鬆開固定螺絲（＃21），直到混合管可以移動（見圖24）。 現在，將Petromax扳手垂直放在噴嘴上方，然後將其滑動到“ 500CP”位置（圖25）。 現在將混合室降低到扳手上。 牢固地拉出螺釘（＃21），再次檢查距離，然後調整併固定正確的距離。 500cP燈籠的最佳值為14.2mm。
黃埔TIPS：
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U型混和管是利用文式管原理，由噴嘴高速噴發的油氣將帶動周圍空氣進入U管混合，若U管不正不順，則會干擾燃燒穩定。U管的位置正確與否與管部通暢也會影響散熱，甚至產生紅管問題。
這陣子大家流行便宜的陸製白牌小P150CP，就常常被紅管或發爐所困，其實更換良好U管或正確孔徑公差準的噴嘴後，就能獲得改善
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Congratulations again! 再次恭喜！
By now all the preparation work is pretty much done.
Now fill the font with max. one liter of clean, white kerosene. This ensures that the necessary space is left in the font for pressurizing. If the font is overfilled one has to pump again within a very short time to maintain required pressure.
When done, screw the pressure gauge set (#149) tightly on. Make sure the rubber gauge seal (#11) is there and it’s undamaged.
When done, screw the pressure gauge set (#149) tightly on. Make sure the rubber gauge seal (#11) is there and it’s undamaged.
至此，所有準備工作已經完成。 現在可加滿油壺。
一公升乾淨的白色煤油。 這樣可以確保在油壺中留有必要的空間以進行加壓。 如果油壺過度填充，則必須在很短的時間內再次泵送以保持所需的壓力。 完成後，將油壺壓力表組（＃149）擰緊。 確保橡膠墊片（＃11）在那裡並且完好無損。
10. Burning the mantle燒結燈芯
The lantern is now prepared. Now open (!) the pressure relieve screw of the pressure gauge. It’s advisable to burn the mantle outdoors as it generates strong fumes and odor.
Fill the pre-heater cup with alcohol (Ethanol) and light. The mantle starts to burn or glow until completely burned white. Only now it’s ready to use. If it doesn’t burn completely put some more alcohol in the cup and continue.
Fill the pre-heater cup with alcohol (Ethanol) and light. The mantle starts to burn or glow until completely burned white. Only now it’s ready to use. If it doesn’t burn completely put some more alcohol in the cup and continue.
Burning the mantle with the Rapid (in case of non-existing alcohol cup) is different.
Here the valve and the pressure relieve screw on the pressure gauge must be closed. Pump the font up to a lower pressure, just enough to get the Rapid to burn. Now open the Rapid with the lever and light the gas stream with a lighter or small gas burner. Let the mantle burn until completely white.
Here the valve and the pressure relieve screw on the pressure gauge must be closed. Pump the font up to a lower pressure, just enough to get the Rapid to burn. Now open the Rapid with the lever and light the gas stream with a lighter or small gas burner. Let the mantle burn until completely white.
A properly burned mantle should look as seen in pic. 31 below.
After burning let the mantle set and cool down some time before lighting the lantern.
After burning let the mantle set and cool down some time before lighting the lantern.
現在汽化燈已經準備好了。 打開壓力表的洩壓螺絲。 最好在戶外燃燒燈芯，因為它會產生強烈的煙霧和氣味。 用酒精（乙醇）加入預熱杯後點燃。 燈芯將開始燃燒或發光，直到完全燃燒成白色。 這樣才可以使用。 如果沒有完全燃燒，則在杯中再放些酒精繼續。如果要使用Rapid火雞啟動（如果不存在酒精杯） 則必須先鎖緊壓力表上洩壓螺絲。將油壺打到一個較低的壓力，剛好足以使Rapid噴槍啟動。 然後將Rapid板機打開並用打火機或小型燃氣燃燒器點燃氣流。 讓燈芯燃燒直到完全變白。 正確燃燒的燈芯應如圖所示31。 燃燒後，讓地幔凝固並冷卻一段時間，然後再點燃燈籠。
11. Pre-heating lantern w. Rapid / pre-heater cup預熱啟動 蓄壓快速火雞預熱/ 無壓酒精預熱
Pre-heating the generator before lighting the lantern can be done in two ways:
1) w. Rapid pre-heater using kero from the font, or
2) w. pre-heater cup and alcohol.
2) w. pre-heater cup and alcohol.
For pre-heating with the Rapid one has to pressurize the font first. Close the valve (arrow ‘up’) and the pressure relieve screw on the pressure gauge (#149). Pump up until the pressure is between 1 ... 1.5 bar. Usually the Rapid pre-heater works best in that range.
點燃汽化燈之前預熱汽化管的兩種方法：
1）使用油壺中的燃料進行快速預熱
2）使用預熱杯和酒精。
要使用Rapid進行預熱，必須先對油壺加壓。關閉閥門（箭頭朝上，通針上行）和鎖緊壓力表上的洩壓螺絲（＃149）。開始打氣直至壓力在1 ... 1.5 bar之間。通常，快速預熱器在該範圍內效果最佳。
Now open the Rapid lever and immediately light the kero / air mixture (see pic. 30). Sometimes the pressure from the nozzle blows the Rapid out by itself. Then try again with some higher or lower pressure.
When the Rapid is firing (pic. 32; don’t be afraid, it’s quite noisy), constantly watch the pressure and keep slowly pumping to maintain a suitable pressure level in the font.
When the Rapid is firing (pic. 32; don’t be afraid, it’s quite noisy), constantly watch the pressure and keep slowly pumping to maintain a suitable pressure level in the font.
Pre-heat for abt. 60-90 seconds and make sure the flame reaches the upper part of the gen and the connections to the generator loop (pic. 33).
Now slowly open the valve. As soon as the mantle starts to form and to give a bright light (pic. 34), flip the Rapid lever down.
Now slowly open the valve. As soon as the mantle starts to form and to give a bright light (pic. 34), flip the Rapid lever down.
要使用Rapid進行預熱，必須先對油壺加壓。關閉閥門（箭頭朝上，通針上行）和鎖緊壓力表上的洩壓螺絲（＃149）。開始打氣直至壓力在1 ... 1.5 bar之間。通常，快速預熱器在該範圍內效果最佳。
現在打開板機，立即點燃油/空氣混合物（參見圖30）。有時，來自噴嘴的壓力會自動將火焰吹熄。請改以更高或更低的壓力重試。 當Rapid噴燄時（圖32；不要擔心，這很吵），請不斷觀察壓力並保持緩慢加壓補氣，以保持油壺能提供合適的壓力。 預熱60-90秒，確保火焰能燒到達環管（圖33）。 現在慢慢打開閥門。燈芯將開始形成並發出明亮的光（圖34）
Check that the little rubber seal securely tightens the pre-heater nozzle (pic. 9).
Let the lantern run with lower pressure for a short time, watch the lantern behaviour (tightness etc.) and check, if the mantle is not damaged. Use welder’s goggles or dark glass (pic. 35).
此時將“ Rapid”板機關回。 並檢查板機橡膠止擋是否牢固密封了火雞噴嘴（圖9）。 先讓燈在較短的壓力下運行，觀察汽化燈的狀況（氣密性等），並檢查燈芯是否損壞。使用焊工的護目鏡或深色玻璃（圖35）。
Pre-heating with alcohol takes more time but is a ‘softer’ start and is more gentle to the mantle.
In this case the valve and pressure release screw might be kept open. The pre-heater cup must be filled with alcohol and lit. If the burning time is considerably less than mentioned above, the gen is most probably not hot enough and a second fill is required.
In this case the valve and pressure release screw might be kept open. The pre-heater cup must be filled with alcohol and lit. If the burning time is considerably less than mentioned above, the gen is most probably not hot enough and a second fill is required.
用酒精進行預熱會花費更多時間，但這是“較溫柔”的啟動，並且對燈芯更紳士。
在這種情況下，洩壓螺絲先保持打開狀態，通針下行。預熱杯裝滿酒精後點燃。如果燃燒時間大大少於上述時間，導致汽化管可能不夠熱，那麼第二次填充酒精是需要的。
Before the alcohol is fully burned, close the pressure release screw on the pressure gauge and start pumping to a suitable pressure. Slowly open the valve and let the rest of the burning alcohol light the lantern.
Let the lantern run with lower pressure again and watch proper operation before adding pressure up to the red mark on the pressure gauge.
在酒精快要燒盡之前，關閉壓力表上的洩壓螺絲，然後開始泵送至合適的壓力。慢慢打開閥門，讓剩餘的燃燒酒精點燃燈。 讓燈籠再次以較低的壓力運行，並在將壓力增加到壓力表上的紅色標記之前，觀察其是否正常運行。
黃埔TIPS：
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預熱點燈大概是汽化燈最迷人的階段。因為原理上是先讓汽化管達到工作溫度，之後開始建立壓力泵送燃料汽化。所以這邊會建議充足的預熱會較好。
建議流程如下：
1.確認油壺蓋鎖緊，打開洩壓閥螺絲，倒入95％酒精乙醇
2.先預熱一杯，在酒精快熄滅前，使用細管酒精壺注滿第二杯預熱。
3.接著鎖上洩壓螺絲，讓油壺進入氣密準備狀態。
4.待酒精剩下1/3時，此時先泵送1下就好，讓油壺建立初步壓力往上送油。然後等油送上汽化管，泥頭開始冒出火焰泡時，再稍等一下。待酒精快要燒盡時，再開始緩緩泵送建立壓力。若是環境太冷，或是油管汽化不順，而啟動不順利，則先洩壓，再次預熱。
5.再達工作壓力之前，也同時環視觀察燈是否有漏氣漏油。若有狀況，也先洩壓，待燈冷卻後，進行檢修。
12. Adjustment of mixing tube paddle U型混合管蝴蝶閥調整
Put the ventilator on if not already done and make sure, the little screw in the mixing tube can be seen from outside. Otherwise turn the vent horizontally by 180 degrees.
Now, only the final tuning is left. This is done using the mixing tube ‘paddle’ inside of the mixing tube (#33). Now turn the screw with a flat screwdriver forward and backward until the lantern gives the brightest light (pic. 36).
如果尚未安裝燈帽，則應先蓋上，並確保從外部可以看到混合管中的蝴蝶閥。 否則，將通風口水平旋轉180度。
現在，只剩下最後的調整了。 這是通過使用混合管內的混合管“槳葉”（＃33）完成的。 現在，用一字起子順時鐘旋轉螺絲，直到汽化燈發出最亮的光線（圖36）。
黃埔TIPS：
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德國人大概是最龜毛偏執的民族吧，所以大p在設計上，幾乎什麼都可以調整，也因此零件那麼多＠＠
蝴蝶閥這邊的習慣會是調整至垂直就好，用不用排氣管膠封住固定則因人而異。會有那麼多延伸技術手法，其實都是因為現代燈的品質真的有點差@@
That’s it folks! 就是這樣！
13. Put out lantern熄燈
To put the lantern out, simply close the valve. If the generator foot valve was properly maintained and is tight, the lantern should stop delivering fuel, vaporize the remaining fuel in the gen and go out almost immediately.
The pressure can be kept in the font if one wants to resume operation very soon. However the lantern should be checked for leakages or dripping frequently.
要將汽化燈熄滅，只需關閉閥門即可。 如果下油管的逆止閥得到正確維護並能正確閉鎖，則能停止輸送燃料，使油管中的剩餘燃料汽化並幾乎立即熄滅。 如果想很快恢復操作，可以在油壺中保留壓力。 但是，應經常檢查燈籠是否有滲漏。
If it’s not going to be used in the very near future it’s best to put it out by just fully opening the pressure relieve screw on the pressure gauge. The lantern will dim and go out within a few seconds.
Let the lantern cool down, close the main valve, screw the release screw tight again and store away.
如果不打算在不久的將來使用它，最好完全打開壓力表上的洩壓螺絲以將其完全洩壓。 燈籠會變暗並在幾秒鐘內熄滅。
讓燈冷卻，關閉主閥，再次鎖緊洩壓螺絲，然後收起。
黃埔TIPS：
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一般而言，還是建議洩壓熄燈，這樣可讓積碳較少發生。一般汽化燈並無如大p或海錨配有下油管逆止閥，無法完全斷油。所以洩壓後，建議洩壓螺絲不要完全鎖死，這樣才不會完全氣密。
因為熄燈後的餘溫，或是溫差，都可能會增加油壺壓力，而造成油料從噴嘴滲出。
14. Identification of age製造年份識別
The manufacturing date, for some lanterns, can be found according to the four-digit no. on the bottom of the fount. However, as far as we know today this is valid only for lanterns made in the 1960’s.
某些P燈的生產日期可以根據四位數的編號找到。 在底部。 但是，據我們所知，這僅對1960年代製造的燈有效。
My lantern bears the no. 4385.
The first two digits refer to the week the lantern was made. Here it means week 43. The number 8 refers to the year: 8 means 1968.
The 5 refers to the day in the week: 5th day means Friday.
The first two digits refer to the week the lantern was made. Here it means week 43. The number 8 refers to the year: 8 means 1968.
The 5 refers to the day in the week: 5th day means Friday.
From this it seems the lantern was made Friday, Oct.25th 1968.
我的燈是4385。前兩位數字表示燈籠製作的星期。 在這裡，它表示第43週。
數字8表示年份：8表示1968。
5是指星期幾：第5天是星期五。
由此看來，燈籠是1968年10月25日星期五製作的。
This way of identification is valid only for the ‘civil’ Petromax lanterns. Lanterns made for the army (with the dull grey surface) don’t carry such numbers.
Newer lanterns also have certain numbering but there is no valid and proven interpretation up to now.
這種識別方式僅對“民用”PETROMAX燈籠有效。 軍燈（表面呈暗灰色）沒有這樣的數字。
較新的燈也有一定的編號，但到目前為止，尚無有效且經過驗證的解釋。
黃埔TIPS：
＝＝＝＝＝＝
老燈老爐除了重新整修，使其發光發熱外。
最有趣的莫過於去發掘他『老』的意義
對比資料，推敲設計者想法，甚至可以比對不同國家地區的個性。
在領略不同時期的製造工藝同時，也能讓雅趣更有深度。
關於PETROMAX的年代考證
可以參考此篇
That was it!
My way and my experience during restoration of a Petromax lantern. Enjoy and run your lantern safely.
這是我在修復Petromax汽化燈的方式和經驗。希望你們也能安全使用和享受汽化燈。
© Jan Moeller 2008
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